By Mario Ziino Published Nov 26, 2003 at 5:43 AM

{image1}Don't bet against Simie Fein. He loves a good challenge and seldom loses. The proof is in the genes.

As a second-generation owner of the family-run Fein Brothers restaurant supply business, now entering its 75th year of service, the Fein name has modestly outlasted its competition, successfully endured unstable times in American history and selflessly helped re-establish a once vibrant local commerce corridor.

It's easy to see how Fein Brothers, Inc. located at 2007 N. Martin Luther King Dr. has survived all these years.

Today, as it has for most of its existence in Milwaukee, the company has maintained a modest staff of 15 employees; some even have been around as long as its owner -- like Gill Mingen. Even his son, Todd Mingen, the general manager of the store, as grown with the business. It's that fidelity, together with its longevity and reputation for customer satisfaction that has made Fein Brothers the number one restaurant and kitchen supplier in Wisconsin, and possibly, the entire Midwest.

That standard of excellence dates to when the business was formed by Simie's father, Sam, whose parents immigrated to the United States from 19th century, revolution-plagued Russia. Hardships faced in this country paled in comparison to what was left behind.

So when Sam decided to open a storefront on Fourth and Juneau Streets, the Great Stock Market Crash of 1929, which was about to paralyze America, could not dare alter his vision. Ironically, the country's economic collapse proved to be the least of his concerns. As the new kid, Sam had to deal with four reputable adversaries, all within a two block radius.

"My father had a small shop at the time," Simie says of Fein Brothers humble beginning. "He had other established competitors but he was not afraid of that. He worked hard to build his own reputation and eventually we were the only ones left."

Fein Brothers defied the tempestuous times of Prohibition, too.

{image2}"Funny thing, my father's first clients were coffee shops," Fein chuckles. "So he didn't have to deal too much with the problems of the times."

The problems of War were an entirely different matter. Fein Brothers grew steadily until World War II sent the U.S. into its first experience with rationing. But not even the limitations of steel, a staple to Fein's fabricating business, could deflate the company.

"It certainly affected our fabricating because we couldn't get stainless steel," Fein says. "It affected our labor force. Two of my father's key people were drafted into the service. But my father was used to hard work, so he pretty much became a one-man gang for a lot of years."

When many cities, including Milwaukee, were torn apart by civil disturbances in the mid-1960s, Fein Brothers stood like a pillar of courage and understanding. The racial tensions left the neighborhood a burned out, lifeless shell of its once thriving shopping district status, regarded as Milwaukee's second downtown.

But that didn't chase Fein. Instead, the company moved right in the heart of the area, occupying the 80,000 sq.-ft. Schuster's Department Store in 1967. Built like a battleship, the Schuster's building is well over 100 years old according the Fein, typical of many structures in the neighborhood. Even the original marquee, similar to those found on old movie theaters, extends over the front entrance, greeting customers from blocks away. Many pointed to that relocation as the start of the restoration process.

"It was a difficult period," Fein says. "This side of town endured a lot of pain and suffering. We wanted to say near the downtown area and it was important to us to stay in the neighborhood.

"The people in this neighborhood knew us. Our clients were familiar with us in this neighborhood and we believed in this area. I guess we were one of the first to help revive the neighborhood."

"This whole neighborhood is very European in structural design. Our building is a fortress. It's solid. The basement has held up very well. Never any water problems, it's dry and the floors are the original wood floors."

And over the next 36 years, Martin Luther King Drive gradually gotten back on its feet. Today, it's one of the fastest growing districts in the city.

"It's remarkable," Fein concurs. "This area has grown. It's a credit to the people that believed in this area. My tax bill has gone up some 70 percent in the last couple of years because this neighborhood has come back so well. That's good for people who have stuck it out here and with us."

Fein is quick to point out that it's the customers that have made the company what it is today. So has the company's capacity to service what it supplies.

"I would say 75 percent of the bars, restaurants and other institutions in the area are our customers. They rely on us because we can help new establishments get started. We can design concepts. We can install refrigeration. We have our own plumbers. And above all, we back everything up."

Fein cites an incident that sets them apart from the competition.

"A year ago, two fellas came in here not very happy," he recalls. "They had gotten word that 80 percent of their order with another supplier was on back order. So they walked in and within a few hours they had filled a U-haul with all the supplies they needed. Nothing back ordered. They have since come back a dozen times.

"I can say this with confidence, once people come into my store, they always come back. We keep it well organized and stocked."

Recently, Fein Brothers expanded further into the building to accommodate its complete restaurant supply showroom.

But if you're looking for kitchen gadgets or pots and pans or dishes and small wares or cutlery, Fein Brothers has an endless supply of accessories for both commercial and consumer wishes. "We now do about 15 to 20 percent retail business," Fein adds.

No need is too small. No job is too big.

"We are doing a huge job right now for the Sarah Chudnow Campus in Mequon," says Fein of the soon-to-open Jewish Home and Care Center. "We have designed the layout for two kitchens because it'll be kosher. Everything will be duplicated."

It's easy to see why Fein is up to any task. When he sets a goal, he usually attains it. The last time anyone wagered against Fein's potential was in 1961.

"I took up the game of handball in 1958 and a classmate of mine, Herb Kohl (yes, the Wisconsin Senator and Washington High School graduate) bet me $5 that I wouldn't be state champion," Fein, soon to be 70, recalls. "He lost the bet."

As he tells the story, he points to a frame on his office wall.

"One day he came in here after one of my friends teased him about the bet," Fein adds. "Herbie sees the check mounted on the wall and says to me, 'no wonder I haven't ever been able to balance my check book.'"

Perhaps, Fein keeps the check as a reminder to all future challengers.