By Gregg Hoffmann Special to OnMilwaukee.com Published Apr 06, 2008 at 5:17 AM

Beer drinkers in western Wisconsin have long known about Downtown Brown and Pearl Street Brewery (PSB).

But, the La Crosse-based brewer was a well-kept secret outside the area. That has started to change.

PSB started bottling some of its beers in 2007, which has expanded the area in which the brews were available and has exposed the products to more beer drinkers. Once that happens, the beers usually get rave reviews.

In addition to Downtown Brown -- originally brewed as Downtown Nut Brown -- PSB brewer Pearl Street Pale Ale, Lucky Logger Lager, El Heffe, Old Skeezer, Evil Doppelganger and a half dozen other beers.

Old Skeezer took a Gold Medal in the Barleywine competition at the World Beer Championships in 2003. An English-style ale, this beer often has an alcohol content of 12 percent, more typical of a wine than beer.

Pale Ale won a Silver Medal in 2003. Four separate British hop varieties are used to create this beer.

Several PSB beers have won awards in regional and state competitions. The brewer also is known for several season brews.

Doppleganger is coming out now in early spring, though its availability is limited. It is a six-malt traditional Dopplebock with a deep caramel flavor.

"We put not only such ingredients as barley and hops into our recipes, but we believe that the addition of our pride, our wit and our integrity bestow our beers with the qualities we wish to be most noteable," said brew master Joseph Katchever on PSB's Web site.

"It is obvious to me that one cannot create something exceptional by using cheap, inferior components. This most certainly applies to the brewing of beer. Using cheap, stale barley or hops, other ingredients like corn or rice, or impure yeast strains may get you a swillable beer, but it will not result in an exceptional brew.

"If one wants beer that graces the lips with mysterious, intricate, maltiness and eyebrow-raising hoppiness, you need to begin with the freshest ingredients on Earth."

Katchever said most of the grains used by PSB are malted in Wisconsin. The brewer even has a hop farm outside nearby Tomah. "We grow our own hops," Katchever said. "All the work that goes into tilling of the soil, the pruning and hand-picking of the hops vines becomes evident when you pour a pint of our fresh beer."

A world traveler, Katchever has studied the brewing practices of Notre Dame and Scourmount monks and has learned about Belgian yeast strains.

PSB fired up its brew kettle in 1999. It is a seven-barrel brewery, with each batch yielding 220 gallons or 14 kegs of beer.

Downtown Brown was one of its first brews and helped establish the reputation of the brewery. Draught beer is still main staple of PSB.

If you want to drink the beers like the locals have been for several years, you should try them at the Bodega Brew Pub, Top Shots, Buzzard Billy's, The Freighthouse, The Helm, Alpine Inn or other La Crosse pubs that serve PSB products.

PSB started in the basement of the Bodega. In 2006, Katchever, who owns the brewery with his father, Tony, moved the operation to the former La Crosse Footwear complex.

They opened a tasting room and gift shop in that location last year. That opening was tied in with the introduction of Downtown Brown, Pale Ale and El Heffe in bottles. Other PSB brews have since been bottled.

PSB plans to continue several traditions, including the annual Great Hop Hoe Down and the autumn Harvesting of the Hop. The public is invited to both.

Bottled PSB beers are sold in regional grocery and convenience stores.

Gregg Hoffmann Special to OnMilwaukee.com
Gregg Hoffmann is a veteran journalist, author and publisher of Midwest Diamond Report and Old School Collectibles Web sites. Hoffmann, a retired senior lecturer in journalism at UWM, writes The State Sports Buzz and Beyond Milwaukee on a monthly basis for OMC.