I'm a loyalist when it comes to wine and barbera is my lady. I have flings with other wines that are harder to find on a regular basis, and I have one-night affairs with the likes of grenache, syrah, pinor noir and others. Barbera and I keep coming back to each other.
When my friend Pat Mangan, who works for Moet Hennessy invited me to Bacchus last night to try three wines made by Manuel Louzada at Moet's Bodega Numanthia winery in the Toro region of Spain, I figured I might learn a little something.
First, I learned that the three Numanthia wines we tasted – 2008 "Termes," 2007 "Numanthia" and 2007 "Termanthia" – are absolutely stellar wines.
But they are no secret to folks in the know. Numanthia's wines have, over the years, garnered ratings on 98 and 100. Yes, 100.
Louzada, a native of Portugal who lives in Spain, grew up in wine, learning winemaking from his grandfather beginning at age 5. He's worked at the family winery (Messias) in Portugal, in Argentina's Mendoza region and in Spain.
When he landed in Toro, he realized that the wines there were extremely distinctive and bold and so heavily tannic that while locals adored them, outsiders had trouble falling in love.
"You have to know up here," Louzada said, pointing to his head, "what you want the wine to taste like in the bottle and you have to work to make it happen."
These, he said, are not wines that come easily; the grapes will not do the work themselves.
But, for those of us on the business end of the cork, it's worth it.
The top of the breed is the regally purple Termanthia, aged 20 months in oak, which will set you back about $200 a bottle. Made from 100 percent Tinta de Toro grapes from ungrafted 120-140-year-old vines, Termanthia is balanced with a fruity embrace and cherry and vanilla notes.
It most certainly owes at least a portion of its complexity and elegance to those vines that date to before phylloxera devastated Europe's vineyards more than a century ago.
Interestingly, the gr…
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