By Andy Tarnoff Publisher Published May 06, 2002 at 5:32 AM

Almost smack dab between Milwaukee and Chicago sits a monument that you've no doubt driven past dozens of times. You've chuckled and maybe even felt a little guilty -- either for laughing at it or even for being from Wisconsin. But have you ever stepped foot inside the Mars Cheese Castle? If you haven't, it's high time that you do.

Since 1947, the Mars Cheese Castle has been delighting weary travelers with so much more than just cheese, though its selection of the fromage can't be beat (it is a cheese shop, sir). Just off I-94 in Kenosha, it also offers a comprehensive grouping of delectable sausages, some shaped like beer bottles or the state of Wisconsin. And anything you could want to complement your cheese is also available: crackers, Swiss candy, gummy stuff and chocolates.

Across the aisle is a comprehensive wine and beer selection, though most of the products hail from Door County wineries and local microbreweries. Behind the counter is a collection of tiny bottles of liquors that would make any airline jealous. Ranging from $1 to $5, you can stock a tiny bar full of this mini booze. And they're great for parties.

Fully half of the Cheese Castle is dedicated to a gift shop, where you can find tacky pieces of crystal, thimbles, shot glasses, Native American velvet art and witty t-shirts. Folks, this is probably not the place to register for your wedding, but the kitsch value cannot be understated.

If all this shopping poops you out, the Cheese Castle has a small restaurant that serves brats, pie and, of course, grilled cheese. You can eat at the small tables, or even better, in the cocktail lounge.

The cocktail lounge is an authentic towny-style tavern that's also a great place to watch a Packers game. The beer is cheap and, you guessed it, they serve cheese and crackers at the bar.

Like so many landmarks in Wisconsin, part of the Cheese Castle's appeal is its (pardon the pun) tasteful cheesiness. It should be a required stop on the way down to Great America or downtown Chicago, if only to remind you that it's only the state line that separates a Cheesehead from a ... well, you know the rest.

But for all its down-home charm, the Mars Cheese Castle is more high-tech than some of its big city neighbors. Yup, their Web site is fully eCommerce enabled, which means you can ship everything from Asiago to Wensleydale. So if you're not planning to be in Kenosha any time soon, visit their site at www.marscheese.com. And for more information, give the fine folks a call at (800) 655-6147.

Andy is the president, publisher and founder of OnMilwaukee. He returned to Milwaukee in 1996 after living on the East Coast for nine years, where he wrote for The Dallas Morning News Washington Bureau and worked in the White House Office of Communications. He was also Associate Editor of The GW Hatchet, his college newspaper at The George Washington University.

Before launching OnMilwaukee.com in 1998 at age 23, he worked in public relations for two Milwaukee firms, most of the time daydreaming about starting his own publication.

Hobbies include running when he finds the time, fixing the rust on his '75 MGB, mowing the lawn at his cottage in the Northwoods, and making an annual pilgrimage to Phoenix for Brewers Spring Training.